martin.w15 wrote: ↑Jun 16, 2018 5:31 amWith PETG you should not be squishing the filament at all. Instead you should be adding a 0.15 to 0.2mm Z offset in your slicer. That is the reason the first layer has to be printed slowly as gravity is the only force that is pushing the filament into the bed so an uneven bed should have a minimal effect when printing with PETG.
With a nickel plated copper nozzle it my be possible to reduce or remove the Z offset as PETG is not ment to bond to that as much as it does to a brass one. I will experiment with that when I change over to nickel plated copper when my current print is finish. Currently 16 hours into a 37 hour print.
The ripping on the infill on the higher layers is being caused by the infill catching on the nozzle. When I first started printing in PETG I discovered raising the print temperature for the main part of the print solved this. So print as cold as possible for the first layer then go to as hot as possible for the rest. For reference I print Rigid ink PETG at 240/245. When I fit a Volcano to my printer I should be able to lower this to 220/230 and as a result reduce stringing.
I deliberately chose a small size of square in that test print. Just enough to show Z offset problems at the 9 calibration points so that it would print reasonably fast. If you want a full bed test I believe joan.t has provided to link/description of one in several of her posts
Hi Rob, I actually do change Live Z, for Petg...rob.l6 wrote: ↑Jun 16, 2018 7:41 am
I don't believe you can be that prescriptive (if that figure refers to PLA as the "standard"). There appears to be a wider variation. Indeed Joan (she will correct me if I am mistaken) prints PETG with no additional offset compared to PLA. Is that correct Joan?
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